Work done over the last few weeks.

once we cut the rebate we fitted the glass plate inside and glued it in stitue.

this photo shows what we used in order to cut the grove into the foam so the glass plate can fit inside.                               

I and Greg we doing the Flanges for the deck.

the photo here shows the air hoes we have running for the Vacum on every floor                                                                           

we had to loft out the angle on the flange before we can fitted into place

once we finished lofting we got some pine wood and cut them into the shape we needed them and into the correct angle we made 2 of ea, one for PS and the other for SS and we also checked out angles with the lofting.

 here is a photo of us placeing the flanges into place and leminateing them.

we Pre-leminated the glass before putting it in place so it can stick much better onto the foam and wont fall off and it also makes it easier not to drill ressin on the foam                                                                 

the glass roll we had was cut into peaces of 300mm long and than cut into half in order to get it into the curve we needed. The glass also had a 10mm lap.

Work over the Holidays on Cabbon Top.

(1)

(1a top view)

(2)

(3)

(4)

(5)

(6)

(7)

(8)

(9)

(10)

While everyone was on there holiday enjoying their beer haha, Chris and Me where working on getting the cabbon top ready for glassing by the time everyone gets back on Monday the 23rd.

We were working on the cabbon top and were planking it. We used 100 Density Foam for it and had to fit it in place over the frames.
The angle of the frames had a big curve on the Fp so we had to bend the foam.
In order for us to bend the foam we had to sand it for a bevel and also give it an angle where it finishes.
I had some problems at the start when i started to get the angle of the Bevel but Chris gave me some tips and i was getting better as i was going along.

To hold foam onto the framers Chris come up with idea to make an mold around to push them into the frames while the appoxy is getting hard so they can stay in shape as you can see on Photo (4).


Our goal was to get the whole cabbon top done so we can get it glassed on Monday.

nose cone for stem

the last few days at uni ive been working on makeing the nose cone for the stem.
In order to get the nose cone ready first you have to get lofting done with all the correct measurements. I did this by going on AutoCad and also measureing from the boat itself.

The process for the nose cone is kinda difficult when its you first time doing it.
After the lofting was done you had to figger out and Radious to connect port side with staboard.

after you find out the radious you have to transfer the radious 8mm out, than you have to find out the points where it meets an also to leave exta bits longer on the end. Getting the angles from each side was not to hard because all you had to do is draw a line down than find out the distance on that point from the CL to the Fp and you will get your angle.

Than its time to get ready the Jig, i had to think about how i will get the jig done Male or Female. Once you think about the jig than its out to find the wood for it, i just used off cuts that we had from left over timber to make the jig, when the wood is ready than its time to transfer the lofting of the radious onto the wood and cut it out on the bansaw an also on the sander to get the correct curve onto it.

Cutting out the foam for the jig.

I had to cut out about 12 peaces of foam which were around 450mm by 13mm. When the foam was all cut up an ready i dry fitted it into place to see if it looks good than it was time to mix the glue and fit the foam onto the jig.

Photos From The Week & Nose Cone

Planks

The whole group was working on getting the planks done. We were divided into 2 groups on the start, I,Taz,Jade and Eren. we were working on getting the planks into place onto the bottom.

By the end of the day both groups set up 5 planks on each side, Port and Staboard.

In order to get the planks to fit into the places that we want, we had to cut the Normal sized planks into half so it can give us better bend an much easyer to controll.

The planks were 8mm thick and the length changed for each plank depends on the possition into on, the reson for this is because all the plank come together in the FP.

Once the planks were planed we dry tested them on, than once they fit properly we places glue onto them and nailed them into place.

Photos.